Amsterdam - "Technically illegal but officially tolerated....."

As I waited in an endless line at passport control in Lisbon (which was horrendous by the way) on my way to Amsterdam, I think it finally dawned on me – I was doing this. I was leaving the safety and security of the life I had built for myself in the US to be a nomad, a wanderer, a citizen of the world. Although I would be seeing David in just 5 days (it had already been 6 weeks since he left for his first rotation in Kazakhstan), a feeling of intense aloneness swept over me. I stood there, ready to take on the world, knowing there was no turning back, when doubt crept in. Did we make the right decision? Should we have taken the safe option of an office job in Houston? Can I actually do this?

And most importantly, did I overpack? (The answer to that is most definitely YES.)

Self-doubt, my friends, is the killer of dreams.

I shook my head and glanced around at the mass of international travelers surrounding me, some with children, some with pets, some with friends, and some alone…like me. Did they feel the same way? I believe that solo travel truly teaches you more about yourself in a day than you could learn in a lifetime. Independence, confidence, and self-reliance are three of the major ones for me, but above all, I believe solo travel can teach you how to be alone. As a human race, we long for connection with each other, but sometimes that desire can come to dominate our sense of self, as if we are only ‘someone’ if we are surrounded by others. Solo travel strips that aspect away and leaves you to figure out how to be you when only you are watching. It is both frightening and enlightening at the same time. But in my brief solo travel experience, I have never found it not to be worth it.

I landed in Amsterdam ready to shake off the travel funk and get rocking. Day One of BrAve Adventures was finally here! So with just 4 days and some change in the city, I set out to explore. As we were closing in on winter solstice (aka the shortest ‘day’ of the year), daylight hours were few, but I was definitely going to make the most of what I was given. Here are some highlights that top my list of things to do during a short stay in Amsterdam:

Walking Tour

Either self-guided or with an official company, I find that I am always able to take in the sights, sounds, and smells of a city the best when walking. While Amsterdam is known for being very bicycle-friendly (you see more bicycles than cars!), between trying to navigate unfamiliar streets and avoid being run over by buses and other cyclists, you can miss the little things that truly make up the heart of a city – a street vendor singing Christmas carols, a brilliantly-painted ceiling, or a small café down a side street that serves one heck of a cup of coffee. And this:

As far as the major tourist sights go, Amsterdam is extremely walkable. You can get almost anywhere in under an hour on foot. I like to independently wander so that I can take my time snapping photos or discover hidden gems, however if you prefer a guided tour, I highly recommend Free Tours by Foot. A ‘name your price’ tour, you reserve your spot online (or just jump in at the beginning of the tour like I did) and enjoy a 1.5 to 2-hour stroll through Amsterdam highlighting the major sights of the city center including the Dam Square, the Anne Frank House, Nine Streets, and the infamous Red-Light District. At the end, if you enjoyed the tour, you tip your guide what you thought it was worth – an easy and budget-friendly way to learn a little more about Amsterdam without the commitment.

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If you are doing an independent wander through the city and you love cheese (like I do, and really who doesn’t?), be sure to stop by the various cheese stores scattered throughout Jordaan and the Nine Streets. They offer free (let me say that again, FREE) cheese tastings, and you will find more than just your basic Swiss and Cheddar in these gourmet shops. The Dutch are famous for their cheeses so take this opportunity to splurge on a delicious wedge or round of Dutch Gold! I particularly enjoyed the Hot Pepper Blend!

Museumplein

On the outskirts of the city center, you will find Museumplein, a large grassy square where a majority of Amsterdam’s major museums are located, including the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. The square serves as a recreation and picnic area, gathering place, and even the occasional Christkindlmarkt and ice skating rink in the winter months. A small village of food vendors, beer and gluhwein carts, and stalls filled with various arts and crafts surround a smooth ice-skating rink creating a delightful little winter wonderland. And seriously, when the temperatures are below freezing, Gluhwein for the win!

As I mentioned above, two major museums dominate the square – the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum – and as I was low on time, these were the only two I was able to explore. As the tickets for both were rather expensive (€17.50 and €19.00 respectively), I would recommend at minimum a half-day for each. If you are like me, however, and enjoy reading every sign, you will need a full day for the Rijksmuseum. Here are my reviews and recommendations for each:

Van Gogh Museum

An expansive museum cataloguing not only Vincent Van Gogh’s work, but also his very interesting life as well, you will get to see some of his most famous masterpieces as well as those of his friends and contemporaries. Special exhibits highlight artists inspired by Van Gogh. I particularly enjoyed the modern art installation that explored Van Gogh’s mental health which ultimately characterized many of his greatest works.

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I highly recommend buying tickets ahead of time online as they only let in a set number of people per day and are often sold out of many of the available time slots at the ticket office. Save yourself the head ache (and the waiting around for your time slot) and pre-book on the museum’s website.

Also, although it does cost a few additional euro, the audio guide was very informative and well worth it, particularly if you are going to be exploring the museum independently. Offering additional details about Van Gogh, his masterpieces, and his personal and private life, it was an excellent companion as I contemplated some of the most influential paintings and sculptures in the history of modern art.

Rijksmuseum

This museum is a doozy. The building itself is quite breath-taking, particularly at night, and is listed as a national Dutch heritage site. With multiple floors, wings, and exhibition halls, it is a massive labyrinth of paintings, sculptures, and artifacts (I got lost more than once, even with a map). The museum tells the story of the Netherlands starting in the Middle Ages and working towards the 20^th century; it features masterpieces by Rembrandt and his pupils, Vermeer, and Frans Hals, amongst others. The Gallery of Honour is the central point of the museum and is home to some of the most famous works you will see, leading to Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. You will need at least an hour in the gallery alone to truly appreciate the magnitude of the artwork before you.

The Rijks library is quite magnificent as well! (I felt like Belle in Beauty and the Beast seeing it for the first time). Unfortunately, you cannot peruse the books, however, it is definitely worth a few minutes to snap some photos and have your “Belle moment”.

It would take me a month to write about all the artwork housed in the Rijksmuseum, so here are a few of my favorites:

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Like the Van Gogh Museum, I would encourage buying tickets for the museum ahead of time on their website; although they do not sell time slots, it will save you from having to wait in the queue. Be sure to take advantage of the free cloakroom, particularly in the winter months; but absolutely do not lose your ticket! Also, I highly recommend connecting to their wi-fi and downloading their app. Bring along some headphones and take their free tour – it will guide you to some of the most famous exhibits and hopefully keep you from getting lost…no guarantees though.

Finally, check the website ahead of time for any events that might be going on in their open atrium. I was fortunate enough to enjoy watching a sketching workshop taking place.

Canal Cruise

The canals in Amsterdam are as iconic as those of Venice. Picturesque to say the least, the main canal area forms almost a semi-circle shape around the heart of the city with weathered bridges providing crossing for foot and vehicle traffic as well as excellent photo ops.

If you truly want to appreciate the beauty of the canals, however, a canal cruise is where it’s at! Running as hop-on & hop-off tours, taxis, and leisure boats, there are a plethora of options to choose from. As Amsterdam’s annual Light Festival was currently on display (and you know I’m a sucker for light installations), I opted for an open-boat evening cruise. (Yes, it was below freezing, but unfortunately, I can’t control the weather.) Provided with a steaming cup of gluhwein and several blankets, we embarked on an around 1.5-hour cruise through the canals. Besides the light displays installed throughout the city, our captain gave us a brief history of the canals and pointed out some of the famous landmarks we saw along the way. It was magnificent – cold, but magnificent!

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The Amsterdam Light Festival only runs through the winter months, but canal cruises and tours run year-round. They are a must-do when visiting Amsterdam, and I definitely will be taking another one during my next visit!

Albert Cuyp Markt

Close to Museumplein and the Heineken Brewery Experience is the Albert Cuyp Markt where you can find stalls selling anything from fur hats and coats to fresh fish and flowers. With a mix of locals and tourists alike browsing the shops lining the street, it is an excellent way to spend a Saturday morning (or any morning really). Be sure to stop by the stalls selling gourmet meats and cheeses, as well as those show-casing delectable Dutch pastries and famous Dutch haring (raw pickled herring…definitely not my cup of tea), but above all, you must try a fresh home-made Stroopwafel!

You can find this cheap, but delicious snack at various stands throughout the market, and I am not going to lie, I didn’t eat only one! Wash it down with a hot cocoa or coffee flavored with rich Dutch chocolate and you will be in sugar bliss! Then walk off that sugar high as you browse the rest of the market or make your way to Museumplein. Pretty much, the perfect day!

Brouwerij ‘t IJ

When I wandered up to this brewery, my first reaction was ‘Can anything scream Netherlands more loudly than this?’ But seriously, who doesn’t want to sip on a pint in a brewery under a windmill? And, in the city known for Heineken – which although better than the Heineken in the US, still isn’t my favorite – this brewery is putting out some pretty tasty craft beers, ranging from IPAs and Sessions to traditional Witbiers and Bocks. So order a pint (or a tasting board if you want to try a few), grab some Dutch bar snacks, and enjoy! PROOST!