Berlin – ‘United We Stand, Divided We Fall’
A relatively quick train ride from Amsterdam later, and I found myself in the heart of Berlin – a city ripe with history. I could almost feel it heave a deep sigh beneath me as it struggled to resolve its turbulent past with its bright future. I knew in an instant – Berlin was the city for me. It is a city not afraid to learn from its grave mistakes and move towards a better tomorrow. A city that was ripped apart by hate and literally divided in two, but that emerged a stronger, more resilient version of itself, full of hope and love. This was the reason David and I had decided to come here – there was a lesson to be learned.
We should all look to the past to keep from making the same mistakes in the future.
I was excited to be spending Christmas in Germany, but most of all I was excited to see David. It had been almost 7 weeks since he had gotten on a plane to Kazakhstan, and while that 7 weeks went by quickly as I was preparing for my new life abroad, each minute without him had seemed like a lifetime. I waited at the train station, heart pounding in my chest – was I actually nervous about seeing my husband? The man I had shared my life with for the past 9 years? It’s funny what love can do to you.
To kill some time, I wandered around the Berlin Hauptbahnhof (Berlin Hbf), and I have to say, as a Christmas connoisseur, I was not disappointed by their decorations!
“Bridger!” I would know that voice anywhere. In an instant, 7 weeks became 7 seconds. BrAve was reunited, and it had never felt so good! As I threw my arms around his neck, I knew in that moment that the sacrifices we were making would be worth it. The Adventures of BrAve was our new normal – 6 weeks apart, 3 weeks together. We were making our dream of traveling the world come true!
With so little time in Berlin (4 days), we knew we would not be able to see everything; thus, we decided to concentrate our efforts on attractions that highlight German history and that of the city itself. And of course, Christkindlmarkts! Here are our recommendations for a trip to Berlin:
Brandenburg Gate
As one of the most recognizable landmarks in Germany, no trip to Berlin is complete without a visit to Brandenburg Gate. Located in Pariser Platz, it has been the site of many major political and historical events since it was constructed in the late 18th century. Originally named the Peace Gate, it consists of twelve Doric columns with the goddess Victoria atop the gate in a chariot drawn by four horses. As the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the famous tree-lined boulevard running through the center of Berlin, the Brandenburg Gate has been used as a Prussian triumphal arch, a symbol for the Nazi party, and a celebratory icon for the reunification of Germany. Beautiful to behold, it has come to symbolize the turbulent history of Berlin and of Germany, but also the peace and unity of Europe as a whole.
Beyond Brandenburg Gate, you will find Tiergarten, Berlin’s most popular inner-city park. Grab a bratwurst from a street vendor and take your time strolling the infinite paths throughout this massive green space in the heart of Berlin. Littered with sculptures, memorials, fountains, and gardens, it provides a pleasant change of pace from the bustling city that surrounds it.
Reichstag
The current meeting place for the German Bundestag (parliament), the Reichstag building is impressive to say the least. Located a block away from the Brandenburg Gate, it has also endured many political changes throughout its lifetime and only became the seat of the current German government in the past twenty years. A massive German flag flies gloriously in front as if to proclaim the unification of Berlin. The large glass dome that sits atop the Reichstag is open to the public for viewing, however tickets must be purchased in advance and, as it is a government building, you must pass through strict security to access it. We, unfortunately, did not have the time when we visited, but it is definitely on our list of things to do next time as I am sure the panoramic views from the top are spectacular!
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Strolling down EbertStraße, just south of Brandenburg Gate, you will find what appears to the eye as rows and rows of uneven tombstones or coffins. This is Berlin’s Holocaust Memorial, or the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. A feeling of uneasy disquiet and somber reflection swept over us as we walked through the 2711 rectangular blocks. As we made our way towards the information center, the concrete rose around us until we were completely engulfed by the towering memorial. The magnitude of the tragedies that had occurred invoked a feeling of shock and sorrow that is hard to put into words.
Free to enter, I highly recommend visiting the information center located at the memorial’s eastern edge. Within it you will find the names of approximately 3 million Jews murdered during the Holocaust as well as several rooms dedicated to telling the individual stories of select families and individuals. Humbling and harrowing, it provides a very literal view of the atrocities of the Holocaust, in contrast to the symbolic memorial above.
Topography of Terror
Turning left towards the city center, you will find a free outdoor and indoor memorial and museum built on top of the destroyed Gestapo and SS headquarters. Chronicling the history of the Third Reich, its institutions, and ultimately its shocking rise to power, Topography of Terror showcases the propaganda used by the Hitler regime to gain control as well as the fear tactics and horrendous crimes committed to keep control. With separate exhibits dedicated to the various groups the SS and Gestapo targeted for torture and elimination, the museum is a very powerful account of the disastrous consequences of fear and hate.
The outdoor open-air exhibition follows the exposed remains of the SS headquarters through 15 stations with information regarding the site’s use during the Nazi regime. The trench tour also integrates historical facts about the longest standing portion of the outer Berlin Wall which runs adjacent to the museum.
The Jewish Museum Berlin
Opened in 2001, the Jewish Museum in Berlin is the largest museum dedicated to Jewish history in Europe. Consisting of three separate buildings, the first features a diverse collection of Jewish art as well as details the history of Israel, with exhibits focusing on a myriad of topics including Biblical representations of Herod’s temple, the evolution of tourism to Jerusalem, and Jewish customs in modern times. The other two buildings concentrate solely on providing an account of German Jewish history and life through the eyes of the Jewish minority starting in medieval times and working its way to the post-war period in the 1980s.
The Holocaust Tower and several art installations on the ground of the Memory Void serve as memorials to honor all those Jewish victims of violence and war. The Holocaust Tower is a bare concrete silo that is neither heated nor cooled with only a sliver of natural light coming through the roof at an odd angle. Dedicated to the murdered Jews of the Holocaust, we found it unsettling, to say the least.
“Fallen Leaves”, an installation by Israeli artist Menashe Kadishman, features 10,000 faces punched out of metal strewn across an empty space and is dedicated to all Jewish victims of violence. Visitors are invited to walk on the steel faces and listen to the sounds created by the metal clanging together as it echoes throughout the empty corridor.
Although the Jewish Museum is not free to enter (it costs €8), it is definitely worth a visit, providing a unique perspective of Jewish history and culture. You will need at least a half day to appreciate the multitude of exhibits throughout the three buildings. Be sure to stop by the gardens as well, particularly if the weather is nice!
Berlin Wall – East Side Gallery
Constructed during the joint occupation of Berlin after political divisions increased between the Soviets and the other Allied powers, the Berlin Wall needs no introduction. With the remaining fragments scattered throughout Berlin, perhaps the most well-known is the East Side Gallery. Officially an open-air art gallery, it features a series of murals painted directly on a 1316m long section of the inner Berlin Wall, including a portion of the infamous death strip. Over 105 artists took part in the project with their art depicting their individual hopes and dreams for a better and brighter tomorrow. Officially declared a heritage-protected landmark by Germany, the East Side Gallery is a monument to the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany and Europe as a whole. We spent several hours perusing the art work and snapping some photos. Here are a few of our favorites:
Be sure to take a stroll over the Oberbaum Bridge while you are in the area. Considered a landmark of unified Berlin, it connects two boroughs that were once divided by the Berlin Wall. Walk along the River Spree then cross the border between East and West.
BEST OF THE REST:
You live and you learn…or in our case, you travel and you learn. Around Day Two of our time in Berlin, we both realized that we had not dedicated nearly enough time to this massive city and all the history that it holds. So, here’s our best of the rest from our frequent wanders through the city, including some bucket-list items to visit next time:
Museum Island
A UNESCO World Heritage site, five museums make up Museum Island in Berlin, and their incredible architecture alone is enough to warrant a visit! We did not have a chance to explore the museums but will definitely make it a priority on our next trip to Berlin.
Berliner Dom
Located beside the Altes Museum on Museum Island, this gorgeous cathedral is a working church that is also open to the public for viewing. It was constructed in the high Neo-Renaissance style in the early 1900s but suffered damage during the wars that followed. Restoration is still in progress.
Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie was the best-known border crossing between East and West Berlin and the location of an infamous tank stand-off between the Americans and Soviets during the Cold War. Along the streets leading to the checkpoint, you will find a historical account of the construction of the Berlin Wall and stories and photos showing subsequent escape attempts. We did not get a chance to visit the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, however it provides more information regarding the aftermath of World War II and the subsequent division of Berlin during the Cold War.
Olympiastadion
Constructed for the 1936 Summer Olympics, the Olympiastadion is now home to Berlin’s leading Bundesliga club Hertha BSC. As the stadium itself is massive, tickets for most matches are relatively easy to come by, and I highly recommend attending if you get the chance! Go a bit early and take in the pre-match festivities surrounding the stadium before making your way to your seats. We had an absolute blast!
Alexanderplatz – Potsdamer Platz – Gendarmenmarkt
Did you really think I would forget about the Christkindlmarkts? For full details, you will have to check out my blog post ‘Weinachten in Deutschland’ but here’s some pictures from the markets we visited in Berlin. Berliner Weihnachtszeit at Alexanderplatz was our overwhelming favorite!
