Cologne (Köln) – Cathedrals, Choirs, and Christkindlmarkts
After a whirlwind week touring Berlin and Frankfurt, we were tired…like really REALLY tired. That’s the one thing about travel that no one ever seems to mention amongst all their Instagram-able photos and exciting blog posts – the physical act of traveling is EXHAUSTING.
Is it worth it? Absolutely! I would never exchange that zonked out feeling for anything if it meant that I could continue exploring this crazy world. I always preach ‘you can sleep when you’re dead,’ but sometimes even I need a moment to take a step back and breathe….and maybe sleep, just this once.
So, we boarded the train to Köln, ready to relax over the holidays. It would be the first time we had spent Christmas apart from our families, and we planned to do…nothing. That’s right. I, Bridger Rhodes, the ultimate planner of all things, had planned nothing. How glorious! (I think….)
Although a relatively short journey, the train ride from Frankfurt to Köln was magical. Little did we know we would be passing through the heart of the Rhineland and that each town or village nestled into the hillside along the Rhine River would be more enchanting than the last. With their hilltop castles and ancient churches, this winding 65km portion of the Rhine Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site and very popular with river cruise companies. And for good reason!
So, with no plan and four days, you may be wondering about our wandering in Köln. Well, here are the highlights from our first BrAve Christmas adventure:
Kölner Dom
No trip to Köln is complete without a visit to this spectacular Catholic cathedral, and seriously pictures cannot do it justice. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the inside of the cathedral is just as resplendent as the outer architecture with intricate stain-glassed windows, two impressive pipe organs, and a shrine that is said to house the remains of the Three Magi. Yes, those Three Magi.
We spent several hours exploring the vast interior and marveling at the beauty of this incredible architectural masterpiece. As it is the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and still a working Catholic church, be sure to confirm it will be open for public viewing before you visit. The hours for services, public visitation, and mass are all available on the website.
And speaking of mass, if you are visiting during the Christmas holiday, you must attend the Midnight Mass services on Christmas Eve. Arrive early if you want a seat as the cathedral will be packed with locals and tourists alike!
Kölner Philharmonie
A beautiful concert hall close to the Kölner Dom, the Kölner Philharmonie is a world class music venue showcasing a variety of musical programs including symphonic chamber music, modern jazz sessions, and operatic performances. Check the website for a list of upcoming shows which can cost as little €10.
On Christmas Eve, we were fortunate enough to secure standing room tickets to see the brass players of the Kölner Dommusik and the Cologne Cathedral choir perform “We Await the Coming of the Christ Child,” a celebratory concert featuring various traditional Christmas carols and a sing-a-long portion.
Schokoladenmuseum Köln
Lindt chocolate – World famous and absolutely delicious! We stumbled across this museum on one of our frequent wanders along the River Rhine, and I am most certainly glad that we did! Dedicated to the history, production, and art of chocolate and chocolate-making, the Schokoladenmuseum provides an in-depth look at the world’s favorite sweet.
With exhibits focused on all things chocolate, including the harvest and transport of cocoa beans, the use of cacao in ancient Mayan times, and the evolution of chocolate through the ages, the museum is informative and interesting. However, the highlight is the working Lindt chocolate factory where you can watch chocolate being made before your eyes.
Although not quite Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory as I didn’t see a chocolate river, the Schokoladenmuseum is about as close as you are going to get! You can taste test milk chocolate from a flowing fountain or ‘quality check’ mini chocolate bars. Stop by the restaurant on the ground floor for a steaming cup of hot cocoa or visit the store to create and take home your own original chocolate bar! YUM!
River Rhine
Life is better on the water. And with most of its major historical sites and various museums situated within a stone’s throw of the river, it is hard to visit Köln and not end up wandering up and down its river banks at least once. With miles of green parks and urban walkways, rent a bike or take a stroll along the River Rhine and you will be rewarded with some brilliant scenery and dramatic views of the city.
Apart from the Schokoladenmuseum and Kölner Dom mentioned above, you will find the Deutsches Sport & Olympia Museum dedicated to, you guessed it, German sports, and Museum Ludwig which features an impressive Picasso collection. Take a visit to the Kölner Zoo or stroll along Rheinauhafen, a urban waterfront promenade with shops, restaurants, and modern buildings we fondly nicknamed “Tetris.”
With golden hour approaching, be sure to cross over Hohenzollernbrücke, Köln’s iconic bridge, to watch the sun set over the city. It was truly breathtaking and quite romantic if I do say so myself!
Unfortunately, because we were visiting over the holiday break, many of the river cruises were currently not in operation. However, several options are available, including day tours, running through the heart of the Rhineland valley, and more extravagant overnight cruises aboard luxury yachts and sleeper boats. After experiencing the beauty of the River Rhine by train and on foot, a boat cruise is definitely on our bucket-list for next time!
Fischmarkt
As you are exploring the banks of the River Rhine, it is hard to miss the colorful row of houses and charming square situated near the river’s edge. With Groß St. Martin, an enormous Romanesque church, serving as a backdrop, a truly picturesque scene unfolds before your eyes.
Originally a fish market and trading port, most of the original architecture was destroyed during the wars. However, the narrow, pointed-gabled houses have been reconstructed to be as historically accurate as possible, creating a fairytale courtyard now filled with cafés, hotels, and shops.
I truly felt like Belle in Beauty & the Beast as I wandered through the quaint quiet little streets, and half-expected heads to start popping out of the windows saying “Bonjour!” (Yes, I know that is French, but seriously, wouldn’t you?)
Take a break from your fairytale moment and pop into one of Köln’s brauhauses to try a delicious Kölsch bier. First brewed in Köln in the early 17th century, it is a lighter beer with great flavor traditionally served in a thin, cylindrical 20-cL glass called a stange. Your server, or köbes, will carry around a circular tray of twelve stangen and will continue to replace your empty stange until you say “Enough, I’m done!”
Excelsior Hotel Ernst Köln – Hanse Stube
For an excellent night out at a fabulous restaurant, make your way to the beautifully situated Excelsior Hotel Ernst Köln on the square of the Kölner Dom. A 5-star hotel, it is was particularly stunning decorated for the Christmas holidays!
We were fortunate enough to secure last minute reservations at their award-winning restaurant Hanse Stube for an elegant 8-course meal. From the amuse-bouche and liver paté (yes, I tried liver. I didn’t hate it.) to the beautiful roasted Christmas goose and the dessert that was almost too pretty to eat, it was a fabulous way to end our Christmas holiday! If you are looking to splurge on an unforgettable gourmet experience in Köln, Hanse Stube should be at the top of your list! Click through to see some of the courses from our delectable dinner:
Alter Markt – Neumarkt
Oh, what can I even say about Köln’s Christkindlmarkts? Delightful, captivating, enchanting, magical! They are what I always envisioned traditional Christmas markets to be and definitely lived up to their reputation as some of the best in Germany! You will have to read my post ‘Weinachten in Deutschland’ for the full details, but until then, here are some pictures from our quintessential Christmas in Köln! Frohe Weihnachten!
