Rotorua, North Island – ‘It stings the nostrils!’
There’s nothing like waking up to the smell of sulfur in the morning. But in the resort town of Rotorua, you get used to it. Known for its geothermal activity and Maori culture, Rotorua is only a short jaunt from Auckland, but should definitely be considered a destination in its own right. We spent the morning wandering around its namesake lake, taking in the beauty of the landscape and wildlife. Steam escaping from geothermal vents created an almost mystical feel.
Our stomachs grumbling, we headed for Eat Streat, an all-weather al fresco dining destination within Tutanekai Street, that offers a myriad of different breakfast, lunch, and dinner options. If you are looking for somewhere to eat in Rotorua, this is the place to come – they have a little bit of everything!
With our bellies full, we headed to Te Puia, situated in the geothermal valley of Whakarewarewa and home to the world famous Pohutu Geyser, as well as a living Maori village and the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute. There are two ways to experience Te Puia – Te Ra (the day time experience) and Te Po (the indigenous evening tour); we opted for the combo ticket so we could enjoy all that Te Puia has to offer.
Full of bubbling mud pools, multi-colored rock formations, and multiple geysers, we wandered the paths of Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Valley, taking in the sites (and smells) of this geothermal wonderland. Pohutu Geyser is arguably the most famous, as it is the largest active geyser in the southern hemisphere. Meaning ‘constant splashing’ in Maori, we were fortunate enough to witness Pohutu’s spectacular eruptions three times during our exploration.
Besides its magnificent geothermal activity, Te Puia also offers a kiwi habitat (good luck trying to locate the kiwi…it took us almost 30 minutes!) and a glimpse inside the arts, crafts, architecture, and culture of the indigenous tribes – the Maori. At the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, you can watch master craftspersons instruct students from across New Zealand at the national schools for weaving, carving, and other traditional Maori arts. Pop by Te Puia’s store before you leave to purchase some of the arts and crafts being created before your eyes.
As the sun set, music and chanting drew us to Rotowhio Marae (the traditional gathering place) where we were greeted (?) by a pretty intimidating Maori warrior! A wero (challenge) is initiated by a Maori warrior when another tribe enters their village. It was followed by a traditional powhiri (welcome) by the female hosts; finally, we entered the exquisitely hand-carved wharenui (meeting house) where we were treated to a concert and performance of traditional Maori songs and dances. We were even invited to take part in the poi dance and the haka!
Dinner was a feast of New Zealand and Maori cuisine, with many dishes prepared in the traditional Hangi style – meats and vegetables placed in baskets and wrapped in leaves, lowered into a geothermal vent filled with steaming rocks, and covered with dirt to cook for several hours. We enjoyed the mussels in particular! While we were eating, we were serenaded by live musicians performing traditional music from the Maori and New Zealand alike. To end our cultural experience, we grabbed a hot cacao and wandered back to Pohutu for a final view of the geyser while our Maori guide shared traditional folktales with us. Te po pai!
