Frankfurt am Main – Modern yet Magical
Germany is filled to the brim with beautiful towns and cities – Dresden, Nuremberg, Munich, Rothenberg, the list goes on – it would take years to see all the scenic villages and fairytale castles. So why Frankfurt, you may ask? As the financial center of Germany, it is known more for its soaring high-rises and busy airport than its traditional architecture and charming scenery. In fact, you can find the ten tallest buildings in Germany dotting its skyline!
So, when David suggested that we pop in to Frankfurt for a day or two, at first, I was hesitant. Wouldn’t that time be better spent in Berlin? What about visiting the castles in Dresden or the brauhauses in Munich? And, oh my gosh, I didn’t realize Germany was such a HUGE country!
A Google search later, and I was convinced. One look at the picturesque Altstadt (Old Town), home to Römerberg and the quaintest little Christkindlmarkt you ever did see, and we were going to Frankfurt! We had already decided that we were going to avoid traveling over the holidays, so that left us with just two days to experience all that Frankfurt had to offer…As it turns out, two days was just about perfect, and for a short stay in Germany, I cannot recommend Frankfurt enough!
So, here are our Best of the Best, but first, a word to the wise – Do not book a 6:30 am train after an evening at a traditional German brauhaus…trust me, just don’t.
Altstadt – Römerberg
Idyllic. Quintessential. Charming. These are the words I would use to describe Frankfurt’s medieval Altstadt, and it most certainly is. For me, it was love at first sight! The cobble-stoned streets lined with timbered and gabled buildings full of shops selling traditional German foods and handicrafts, and in the heart of it all, Römerberg – a picturesque public square that made me want to pull on my lederhosen and dance the schuhplattler!
Although only a reconstruction as much of Old Town was destroyed during the wars, one step down a side street, and we felt as if we had been transported back in time. Street vendors sell bratwursts, cheeses, and apfelwein, while a gentleman plays a barrel organ on the corner under a lamp post. Locals and tourists alike mill about soaking in an old-world Bavarian atmosphere in the middle of a major metropolitan. I’ll say it again – idyllic! And during a visit to Frankfurt, Altstadt is definitely not to be missed.
If you are lucky enough to be visiting during the Christmas holidays, this is also the major location for the Frankfurt Christmas Market which you can read more about in my post ‘Weinachten in Deutschland’!
Frankfurter Dom (Dom St. Bartholomäus)
Near the west end of Altstadt is St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, a Gothic-style Catholic imperial cathedral featuring some beautiful stained-glass windows and Renaissance frescoes. Even amongst the surrounding skyscrapers, the red sandstone building stands out, and I would highly recommend paying the €3 it costs to climb the tower. Be prepared, the winding staircase is steep and narrow, but when you finally reach the top (which at one point I thought would never happen), you are gifted with some spectacular panoramic views of Frankfurt, Römerberg, the River Main, and beyond.
The Hauptwache – Zeil
Where Altstadt celebrates the old, Hauptwache, and Zeil in particular, are all about the new. Another pedestrian-friendly public space, they blend historic structures with modern buildings to create the busiest shopping district in Frankfurt. And while we really weren’t much for shopping, the people-watching here is great!
Venture into the underground mall for some retail therapy or peruse the luxury stores lining the streets. Head towards the River Main and you will find family-owned shops and restaurants and one-of-a-kind boutiques. Be sure to make note of the of the historic buildings in the area such as the Eschenheimer Turm, one of the last remaining towers of Frankfurt’s medieval wall, and the baroque-style Old Guard House from which the area derives its name.
Kleinmarkthalle
Do as the locals do. Go where the locals go. That’s how you really experience a city, country, and culture. I always find it interesting that, as tourists, we spend hours snapping photos of historic buildings or fighting through crowds to see an ancient artifact, when most locals will pass by without a second glance.
So, take a moment and visit Kleinmarkthalle. While you will encounter some tourists, the majority of people perusing the stalls or enjoying a lunch break are locals. With a live fish market, produce and flower stalls, butcheries, bakeries, and a multitude of café-style eateries, the sounds and smells are enough to entice the senses. Go for the experience but stay for the food!
River Main – Mainkai – Eiserner Steg
Along both sides of the River Main, you can find excellent parks and walkways, providing some respite from the bustling city center. Rent a bike or pack a picnic for a relaxing afternoon on the water. But you absolutely must take a stroll along the south bank as night is falling – the city will come alive before your eyes. Somehow, we found ourselves in this area every evening we were in Frankfurt, and it is easy to see why.
Cross over Frankfurt’s famous iron footbridge, Eiserner Steg, that runs between the city center and Sachsenhausen. The views of Bankenviertel, Frankfurt’s financial district and thus its skyline, are some of the best you will get. Take a love lock to fashion on the bridge, if you can find the space!
Museumsufer
The banks of the River Main close to Eiserner Steg are home to Museumsufer, Frankfurt’s Museum district. You will find most of the 12 museums on the left bank, including the Städel, one Germany’s most spectacular fine art museums, and the Liebieghaus which houses a sculpture collection ranging from ancient Greece until the Renaissance period.
A mixture of new architecture and historic villas house the various museums and while most require a paid ticket, several are free to enter. As a film buff myself, I look forward to returning to Frankfurt and exploring the Deutsches Filmmuseum which is dedicated to the art and history of film-making.
Alt-Sachsenhausen
Although currently a district of Frankfurt, when you cross the River Main to Alt-Sachsenhausen, you feel as if you are leaving the city all together. The cobble-stoned streets are littered with pubs and traditional apfelweinkneipen serving up pints and pitchers of Frankfurt’s most famous beverage, apfelwein (apple wine).
Apfelwein is more sour than sweet but can best be compared to cider. Brought to you in a ceramic pitcher painted with a filigree pattern and poured into a ribbed glass, it is tart and refreshing and is the perfect complement to rich and hearty traditional German fare. I’m not gonna lie – I enjoyed more than one! Prost!
