England,  London,  United Kingdom

London – Mind the Gap

“There’s a hole in the world

Like a great black pit

And the vermin of the world

Inhabit it…

And it goes by the name of London.

…Yes, there’s no place like London.”

~ Stephen Sondheim

 

Well Stephen Sondheim got one thing right.  There really is no place like London.  It was the city that made me fall in love with travel.  It calls me back over and over again.  And with its numerous world-class museums, beautiful gardens and grand architecture – not to mention its propensity for royalty – I believe you could live there for a decade and still be left with more to discover.

 

By seeing London, I have seen as much of life as the world can show.

~ Samuel Johnson

 

Ten years ago, I left my home in North Carolina and hopped on my first international flight.  Destination:  London.  I was terrified.  But between getting lost multiple times while wandering the city and eating up as much of the culture as I could, I found myself.  And when I left, a piece of my heart stayed behind.

Flash forward ten years and I was headed back to the city that had inspired me, but this time with my husband in tow.  After our Christmas adventures in Germany, we were off to jolly old England for the New Year…and for the PDC World Darts Championship at Alexandra Palace.

 

 

If you have been following along on our adventures, you know that David and I love to wander.  We walk EVERYWHERE.  However, because London is so massive and spread out, walking the entirety of the city really isn’t an option. So, unless you are prepared to walk 20 miles or more a day, you will be using the Underground to get from place to place (Side note:  Get an oyster card!).

However, that doesn’t mean you can’t do mini walking tours of different areas of the city!  So, while we have only scratched the surface of all that the capital of the UK has to offer, here are some of our favorite tube to tube wanders from a BrAve New Year in London:

 

Hyde Park Corner to Westminster via Buckingham Palace

Take the Tube to Hyde Park Corner and wander towards Wellington Arch.  You are now in Green Park, one of many green spaces throughout London, and headed towards the home of the British monarchy – Buckingham Palace!  Check the website before you go as the State Rooms are only available for visit for 10 weeks in the summer and on special occasions.  The Queen’s Gallery and Royal Mews, however, are open year-round.  Snap some pictures of the Victoria Memorial gracing the square in front of the palace and be sure to time your visit around the Changing of the Guards.  Don’t you just feel like royalty?

 

 

After a visit to Buckingham Palace, wander down the Mall or take a stroll through the adjacent St. James’s Park.  I found the architecture surrounding the park to be absolutely spectacular!  When you reach the edge of the park, exit through the Horse Guards Parade.  If you time it right, you might be able to witness the daily changing of the guard at the Household Calvary Museum.

 

 

Turn right and pass by the Banqueting House, where visitors can still admire some beautifully painted ceilings by Rubens.  Continue wandering down Whitehall to Parliament Street (you will pass the iconic doorway of 10 Downing Street on your right) until you reach the Sir Winston Churchill Statue – we spent a few minutes exploring Parliament Square Garden which features sculptures of many prominent international political icons, including Mahatma Gandhi and Abraham Lincoln.  Across the street, you will find the Palace of Westminster, home to the British Parliament, and the iconic Big Ben.  Or in our case, 16 stories of scaffolding in the shape of a clock tower!  (Apparently, he is undergoing refurbishment)

 

 

Finish your tour with a visit to Westminster Abbey, a beautiful gothic church and site of every English and British coronation since 1066.  The tickets are quite expensive (£20), so be sure to give yourself adequate time to fully appreciate the interior and exterior of this gorgeous architectural masterpiece.  Purchase them online from the website for a discount and to avoid the queue (which can be extremely long).

 

 

Once inside, be sure to pick up the free audio guide that will highlight the history of the abbey, as well as the multitude of famous people buried or memorialized there.  Look for the graves of Sir Isaac Newton, Charles Dickens, and Mary, Queen of Scots, amongst many many others.  But no pictures! (Seriously, no pictures.  I was whispered harshly at more than once by the staff) Then take a stroll through the cloisters for some beautiful views of the grounds and architecture within Westminster.  You can also see Britain’s Oldest Door!  I know.  Super exciting, right?

 

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Westminster to Tower Hill via The Queen’s Walk

If you still have some daylight left and aren’t ready to settle in at a pub for a few pints, keep on wandering across Westminster Bridge to the south bank of the Thames.  Or if your day is just getting started, take the Underground to Westminster station.  Pause for a moment to appreciate the Boudiccan Rebellion statue and the amazing views down the Thames from the bridge and surrounding area!  London, you have my heart!

 

 

Now you have 2 options here, so choose wisely.  Seriously though, you can’t go wrong!

 

Option 1:

 

 

Cross Westminster Bridge and turn left to take the stairs down to the Queen’s Walk along the Thames River.  I don’t know why, but to me, everything always seems more magical when it’s on the water.  This wander keeps you on or near the banks of the Thames for 3 or so miles so have your camera ready for some picturesque photos of the city!

Dominating the skyline above you is the world-famous London Eye.  We unfortunately did not get a chance to take her for a spin, but the views are spectacular, particularly if the weather is nice!  (Go at sunset for some real magic!)  Be sure to book your tickets ahead of time for a discount and to avoid the queue which can be hours long.  But still be prepared to wait.  It’s inevitable.

 

 

Continue on and you will see the National Theater on your right which has been declared one of the World’s Ugliest Buildings – how unfortunate for that architect!  You will also pass by Waterloo Bridge and Blackfriars Bridge before arriving at the Tate Modern, a free art gallery featuring international modern and contemporary art including works by Pierre Bonnard, William Blake, and Andy Warhol.  You could easily spend a half day or more in the gallery, particularly if you are an art buff, so be sure to give yourself plenty of time.  Stop by their café for some amazing views of the Thames River and Millennium Bridge, the elegant pedestrian suspension bridge more fondly known as the Harry Potter Bridge.

 

 

 

Keep on walking and Shakespeare’s Globe will be on your left.  A replica of the original Elizabethan theater, you can purchase pit tickets (standing room only) for £10!  Even if you aren’t into Shakespearean theatre, I highly recommend it – it is a very unique experience!  Check the website for the shows currently on sale.  Tours of the Globe are also available.  Then stop by the Anchor Bankside and enjoy a pint within the same walls as the likes of Shakespeare and Samuel Johnson.  Cheers!

 

 

By now, we were starving, so after pausing for a moment at the London Bridge – which offers fantastic views of the Tower Bridge, but as a bridge itself is slightly underwhelming – we took a slight detour to Borough Market.  Head here for a myriad of international street food vendors, produce and flower stalls, butchers, bakers, and candle-stick makers (ok, not really).  The sights, sounds, and smells of this market truly entice the senses!  We ordered several snacks from a few different stalls and were not disappointed with any of them.  Thai, Mediterranean, African, Japanese, South American – the options are endless!  Keep in mind that on most days, the Borough Market closes at 5pm, so make sure to arrive with plenty of time to spare.

 

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After eating and drinking your fill, head back to the Thames River.  The HMS Belfast will be moored on your left.  Buy tickets and hop onboard to explore this famous WWII battleship that has become an iconic London landmark.  Or take a stroll through Hay’s Galleria, a beautiful outdoor restaurant and shopping area, that was particularly gorgeous lit up during the holiday season. All of the lights!

 

 

Across the Thames, you will see the Tower of London, home to the world-famous Beefeaters and, of course, the Crown Jewels of the British monarchy.  The real star of the show, however, is the Tower Bridge, an absolutely spectacular Victorian bridge that is often mistaken as the London Bridge.  We took more pictures than I can count of this stunning architectural tour de force and were lucky enough to witness the magic of a bridge lift.  Although completely by accident on our part, the times the bridge will lift are listed on their website.  Also, for around £9, you can explore the Victorian Engine rooms that power the bridge and walk along the upper-level walkways for stunning panoramic views of London.  Simply breathtaking!

 

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Like I said, there were 2 options for this wander.  For a less aggressively full day, you might prefer an alternate route.  We did both…on separate days of course.

 

Option 2:

After crossing Westminster Bridge, continue down Westminster Bridge Road past the Florence Nightingale Museum and Waterloo station.  Keep walking until you arrive at the Imperial War Museum, which is perhaps one of my favorite museums in London!  Housed within the beautiful historic Bethlem Hospital now flanked by restored cannons, it may not look like it from the outside, but you can easily spend a full day here.

 

 

Free to enter, the permanent and temporary exhibits are incredibly detailed and well thought out, following British imperialism and military history from the pre-WWI era to modern times. With a collection of military vehicles and aircraft, as well as propaganda, memorabilia and technological displays, the First World War exhibit dives into the history of the international and European conflicts and British imperial policy that consequently led to their involvement and the Allied victory in the first of the great wars.

 

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Perhaps more humbling and harrowing, however, is the Holocaust Exhibition.  Due to the disturbing subject matter and the very stark way it is presented, this exhibit is not recommended for children under 14 years of age.  It follows the rise of Hitler and the Nazi regime to power and how their ‘Final Solution’ of persecution and eventual mass extermination originated and was implemented.   With personal items and accompanying stories on display from survivors and non-survivors alike, it was a shocking and saddening reminder of the dire consequences of racism and hate.  Emotionally draining yet enlightening, I recommend allowing yourself at least an hour and half for this exhibit alone.

 

 

Before you leave, be sure to tour the grounds surrounding the Imperial War Museum, then feel free to wander towards Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, a few blocks away or explore the many shops, bars, and restaurants nearby.

 

Tower Hill to Charing Cross

Take the tube to Tower Hill, and after exiting, make note of the remnants of the ancient Roman wall still standing near the station.  In front of you is the imposing castle, fortress, and prison now known as the Tower of London, a UNESCO World Heritage site.   Wander around the outer wall for some excellent views of the fortress itself, the Tower Bridge, and the south bank of the Thames River, including the hotly contested skyscraper called the Shard. Simply Brilliant!

 

 

Be sure to read the signs along the way as they detail several of the famous prisoners housed within the tower, the infamous Traitor’s Gate, and the additional expansions built throughout the centuries.  Enter through the Middle Tower and if you time it right, you can join a tour led by the world-famous Yeoman Warders, or more commonly, Beefeaters (No, not the gin…but it is named after them!).  Informative and entertaining, the tour only lasts around an hour or so and provides you with an initial introduction to the history, both royal and gruesome, behind the Tower of London.  I highly recommend it!

Stroll the upper battlements for views of the Thames River and access to the towers originally built as apartments to house the royal family, but that grew in infamy when they were converted to prison cells during the Tudor dynasty.  Be sure to look for the carvings in the stone walls throughout the fortress, as they give some insight into who was imprisoned there and the possible torture and death they suffered.  Grim stuff for sure!

 

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The White Tower sits prominently in the middle of the courtyard and is considered one of the most complete 11th century palaces in Europe.  Before entering however, we spent some time wandering through the lush green lawns and courtyards surrounding it.  Keep an eye out for Anne Boleyn’s execution site, now a memorial to all those beheaded within the Tower of London.  And don’t forget to visit the ravens, the famous guardians of the tower.  Legend has it that the Tower of London and the KINGDOM will fall if the six resident ravens ever leave the fortress!

 

 

 

 

A 1,000-year-old imposing keep, the White Tower is now an iconic symbol of both London and Britain.  Originally built as a royal residence, it showcases the Royal Armories collection, including the world-famous Line of Kings, an over 350-year-old exhibition.  Other historic artifacts within the keep include an original block and ax from the 18th century and the exquisite Chapel Royal of St. John.  But beware of ‘Keeper’, the dragon guarding the Tower!

 

 

And finally, of course, no visit to the Tower of London is complete without seeing the 23,578 gemstones that make up the world-renowned Crown Jewels.  Many of which are still in use today, including the exquisite Coronation Regalia used to crown the British monarch at Westminster Abbey.  But be prepared to wait in line and don’t even think about trying to take a photo!

 

 

Tickets to visit the Tower of London are a bit expensive (£25), so I definitely recommend at least a half day to fully appreciate all the exhibits the tower has to offer.  Buy them online ahead of time for a slight discount and to avoid the queue.  Bonus tip: If you are planning on visiting some of the other palaces in and around London, look into a year-long membership to save yourself a few pounds.

After fully exploring the Tower of London, grab some tea and a biscuit and head up Eastcheap towards Cannon Street. Look to your left for views of the Monument to the Great Fire of London, a column designed by Sir Christopher Wren to commemorate, you guessed it, the Great Fire of London.  Who would’ve thought?  Adorned with a golden urn that shines like fire in the sun, for a few pounds, you can climb the stairs to the top.  We didn’t have time, but I am sure the panoramic views of London are spectacular!

 

 

Onwards up Cannon Street and the magnificent St. Pauls’ Cathedral comes into full view.  Sitting on the highest point in the City of London, this striking Anglican church is the seat of the Bishop of London and still holds morning and evening prayer services.  Be sure to check the website and purchase tickets online before you visit and make note that it is only open for worship on Sundays.  As the tickets are around £20, we opted to tour at a later date, but did explore the beautiful gardens surrounding St. Paul’s.  And honestly as majestic as the outer façade is, I can only imagine that the inside is just as impressive!

 

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Wander a few blocks more and you will reach one of my favorite streets in all of London – Fleet Street!

 

“The man must have a rare recipe for melancholy, who can be dull in Fleet Street.” ~ Charles Lamb

 

Full of life, energy, and history, I could wander up and down this street for days and still find more intriguing architectural and cultural tidbits hiding in its underbelly.  Wander down a side street to Temple Church or check out the ornate architectural wonder that is the Royal Courts of Justice.  Peruse the tea offerings at Twinings but DEFINITELY duck into Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese – my favorite and one of the oldest (and CHEAPEST) pubs in London!  Grab a pint and a take a step back in time!

 

 

Keep walking down Strand but be sure to take a moment to appreciate the beautiful Victorian and Georgian architecture that surrounds you, including Somerset House which hosts an ice-skating rink in its courtyard during the winter months!  You will also pass several theaters along the way, notably the Lyceum, home to The Lion King, and the Savoy and the Adelphi, both of which feature a wide range of musical and theatrical performances.  With plenty of cafés, restaurants, and pubs flanking both sides of the street, stop in for a quick drink or bite to eat before making your way to quaint Charing Cross Station with the historic Queen Eleanor Memorial Cross gracing the square in front of it!

 

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Charing Cross to Leicester Square

Another day, another wander!  (Or if you are feeling super motivated you can keep on keeping on from your wander above) If not, take the tube to Charing Cross station and exit across the street to the absolutely lovely Trafalgar Square.  Grab some breakfast from a nearby café or the Pret A Manger, a counter-serve coffee chain that I seriously ate at almost every day that I was in the UK, and enjoy some amazing people-watching in the very heart of London on one of the world’s most famous squares!

 

 

 

Nelson’s Column, rising above the middle of the square, is hard to miss, but don’t forget to check out the sculptured fountains and the statues on the four pedestals adorning the corners of the square, including the ever-changing contemporary artwork on the fourth plinth.

 

 

Head up the stairs towards the massive art museum at the north end of Trafalgar Square which houses The National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery.  But first, take a brief detour to St. Martin-in-the-Fields which sits right across the street.  A working church, art gallery, performance venue, and café, check the website to see if any concerts or shows are taking place while you are visiting.  It is quite something to attend a FREE (yes, you read that right – FREE) lunchtime jazz concert in such a beautiful setting!

 

 

Afterwards head back across the street to the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery.  If you are an art buff, these two free to enter galleries will be heaven on earth.  The National Gallery houses over 2,300 hundred works of art dating from the 1200s to the 1900s, including masterpieces by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Paull Cézanne, and Vincent Van Gogh, amongst countless others.  You will need at least a half day if you want to fully appreciate the entirety of the museum – or visit several times like I did to truly revel in the magnificence of the art.

The National Portrait Gallery sits adjacent to the National Gallery and houses…yes, you guessed it, portraits!  The first art museum dedicated strictly to portraits, spend an hour or so here browsing the paintings of historically important individuals and famous Brits.  If you are lucky, you might even find a portrait of your doppelganger hanging inside. (Unfortunately, I’m still searching for mine!)

 

 

Now head into the center of London’s Soho/West End.  Destination: Piccadilly Circus.  A huge traffic junction and meeting place, take a moment to snap some photos of the iconic Status of Eros in the middle of the roundabout and the massive world-famous illuminated billboards.

Keep on wandering through Theatreland and into the riot of colors and smells that is London’s Chinatown.  We ate here on several different occasions (we L-O-V-E Chinese food) and with endless options of Dim Sum, Pho, Sichuan, and your standard Chinese buffets, you really can’t go wrong.  Let your stomach do the deciding – you won’t regret it!

 

 

 

A block or two more and you have reached the very heart of the Theatre District – Leicester Square.  A bustling hub of action, spend some time people-watching as street performers put on a show for the passing tourists.  Side Note: Pop by the TKTS office to score some same-day or week-of discounted theater tickets for one of the numerous musicals, plays, or concerts taking place in the area.  (Word to the wise, however, if you want tickets to the most popular shows – Hamilton, Harry Potter & The Cursed Child, etc. – you will need to book in advance…far, far in advance.)

If theatre really isn’t your thing (or you are traveling on a budget), head over to the effortlessly cool Prince Charles Cinema.  A haven for hipsters and film buffs, check the website for a list of what’s showing – it changes daily.  Cult classics and indie films, sing-a-longs and all-night movie marathons are just a few of their offerings with a bar downstairs selling reasonably priced drinks and snacks.  I had the pleasure of undertaking a 12-hour all-night marathon of Lord of the Rings! (My preciouuuuuusssssss….)

 

 

With brand-name and boutique shopping, fast casual and fine dining, and what feels like an infinite number of theatres and performance venues showcasing everything from Broadway to Shakespeare, you will never be without something to do in London’s lively Soho/West End.  Although it is only a few blocks, this wander could take you all week!

 

 

King’s Cross to Covent Garden

 

“Excuse me sir, can you tell me where I might find Platform 9 and 3 quarters?” – Harry Potter

 

Take the tube to King’s Cross station, and you will most certainly be asking this question as well.  A major transportation hub in London, King’s Cross has now become synonymous with the Wizarding World of Harry Potter.  And while Platform 9 ¾ is definitely worth a photo op, particularly if you are a Potterhead (Side note: If you don’t want to be waiting for many MANY hours in the queue, arrive first thing in the morning!), the train station and adjacent St. Pancras International are deserving of a wander in their own right.  With a multitude of shops, cafés, and bars housed within a glass-domed Victorian station, I find St. Pancras to be particularly stunning!

 

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Exit the station and head directly across the street to the British Library.  With plenty of co-working space and free Wi-Fi, I spent many hours here researching, writing, and perusing the 14 million books lining the shelves – which includes every book published in the UK and Ireland.  Be sure to check out the Sir John Ritblat Gallery which houses a collection of the Library’s treasures.  Free to the public, the highlights include the Magna Carta, a Gutenberg Bible, Handel’s Messiah, original Beatles’ lyrics, and the Diamond Sutra, the world’s earliest dated printed book.

 

 

Head down Euston Road, passing St. Pancras Church and the Wellcome Collection on your left and Euston Square Gardens on your right before turning onto Gower Street.  A few blocks ahead, you will find my favorite museum in London (and perhaps favorite museum of all-time?) – the British Museum.

 

 

An imposing building to say the least, you will need at minimum a half-day to explore the many rooms, exhibits, and galleries, this free to enter museum has to offer.  With departments dedicated to Ancient Greece, Europe, Africa, Asia, the Middle East, and the Americas, (and that doesn’t even cover the special exhibits) we spent over 7 hours here and STILL didn’t see everything.   The most extensive and most visited is the ancient Egyptian antiquities collection – in fact, it is the world’s largest and most comprehensive outside of that housed in Cairo.  Pro tip: if you want to see the Rosetta Stone up close, I would recommend arriving early.  Otherwise you will be fighting the other throngs of tourists trying to take a selfie with one of the world’s most famous rocks.  (Although I did get a good laugh at a teenage girl saying ‘I don’t know what this is, but take my picture with it anyway…’)

It would take me months – and many more thousands of words and pictures – to cover the massive amount of artwork, artifacts, and antiquities housed within the British Museum, so here are some of the highlights.  You will just have to visit yourself to see the rest!

 

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At this point, we were pretty museumed-out.  So, here’s a recommendation from me to you, if you have the time, don’t try to do the entire museum in one day.  I believe you will have a greater appreciation for the magnitude of what you are seeing if you spend a few hours in one or two departments, rather than trying to cram the entirety of human history into an 8-hour block.  Just a thought…

After the British Museum, head across the street for some fresh air in Russel Square or Bloomsbury Square Gardens, two of the many green spaces dotting central London and a pleasant area to have a picnic and relax.

 

 

Now wander a few blocks further south to the vibrant hustle and bustle of Covent Garden – a haven for shopaholics, foodies, and theatre buffs, as well as those who enjoy some pretty excellent people-watching.  This pedestrian piazza houses the London Film Museum, the London Transport Museum, and the Royal Opera House as well as many upscale retailers, fine dining establishments, theatres, pubs, souvenir stalls, and everything in between.  Visit the Apple Market for beautiful hand-made crafts and works of art and the Jubilee and East Colonnade Markets for about everything else.  Open 7 days a week, you are certain to find something for everyone on your list.

 

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Be sure to climb the stairs to Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop to browse their creative pop-up theatres and eclectic toys.  Also check out the Moomin Shop and Pylones for novelty items, Atelier and Penhaligon’s for perfume, and the Segar & Snuff Parlour for – yup, you guessed it – cigars and snuff!  Whittard of Chelsea is also not to be missed.  A specialty tea, coffee, and hot chocolate supplier, they offer free (yes, FREE) samples of many of their gourmet brews and a reasonably priced and quite delicious afternoon tea.  You will also find shops selling decadent chocolates and sweets, vintage clothing and collectibles, fine stationary and jewelry, amongst many many others.

 

 

After all that shopping, you are bound to work up an appetite (I know I did!), and with countless culinary options around every corner, you need only pick your poison.  My personal recommendation is to head to the lower level and grab a table in the courtyard of the Crusting Pipe. Order their afternoon tea or a glass of wine and get ready to be serenaded by world-class operatic singers and string musicians.  It was truly incredible, and I returned several times for different performances!

 

 

I would need a separate blog post (and many more visits to London) to truly delve into all the world-class culinary establishments in Covent Garden, but honestly, I believe you really can’t go wrong.  Whether you are craving cask ales and chips, champagne and charcuterie, or cocktails and curry, there is certainly something to suit your fancy.

End your wander with a stroll down an easily-missed alleyway to the Lamb & Flag, a Georgian pub and the famous former haunt of Charles Dickens.  Over 250 years old, it is definitely worth a stop for history buffs and beer enthusiasts alike as it retains a lot of the original charm of a traditional London pub and has a sordid and bloody past to match.  Have a pint by the fireplace or head upstairs for a full menu of hearty English food.  Cheers!

 

 

 

Camden Town to Baker Street

For this lovely little wander through London, we are headed north to Camden Town.  Take the tube to the stop conveniently called Camden Town and walk a block or two north to Camden Market.  This vibrant and quirky little market is open 7 days a week from 10-18:00 and features shops and stalls selling everything from specialist juggling gear to vintage curiosities to mod-inspired clothing.  The market is massive so don’t expect to see everything – although I certainly did try – and I would definitely recommend picking up a map at the entrance.

When you start feeling peckish – a certainty with all the sights and smells tantalizing your senses – there are LITERALLY hundreds of food options available.  From terrace bars to hip cafés to eclectic street food, you better bring your appetite because you are going to want one of everything!  There are burgers and burritos, poké and pizza, cheese and churros, and even something for the vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free people in your life.  And let me tell you, it all looked delicious!

Now head a few blocks north before turning left on to Regent’s Park Road.  Cross the bridge and keep walking until you reach Primrose Hill, one of six protected viewpoints in London.

 

I have conversed with the spiritual sun. I saw him on Primrose Hill. – William Blake

 

The summit features spectacular skyline views of the city below and is an excellent place for a picnic or to just lay back and watch the world go by.   The scenery is particularly dramatic at sunrise and sunset!

 

 

Several blocks to the west – ok, maybe a little further than that – and you will find a rock-n-roll mecca, a place of pilgrimage for all those who need some ‘Help!’, like to ‘Come Together’, and above all just want to ‘Let It Be.’  That’s right, Abbey Road Studios and of course, the most famous zebra crossing in the world. The studio rarely allows visitors so don’t get your hopes up, but there is a very cool gift shop next door featuring some rare Beatles memorabilia.  Be sure to snap some photos at the famous Abbey Road crossing but beware of cars!  We were almost hit more than once.

 

 

After the crossing, head south past the Lord’s Cricket Ground, the traditional home of English cricket, and veer back towards, dare I say it, my favorite park in London – The Regent’s Park.  A massive green space that is home to the ZSL London Zoo, various gardens, several sporting facilities, and a boating lake, I found this park to be a breath a fresh air from the hustle and bustle of the city.  Stroll through Queen Mary’s Gardens to see a collection of 12,000 roses – some of which are very unique hybrids – or head to The Boathouse to rent a row boat or pedalo.  I found myself in Regent’s Park several times and often I wouldn’t see another person for hours.  (And in a city as big as London, that is saying something!)

 

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Unfortunately, the Open Air Theatre, located in the Inner Circle of the park was still closed for the season.  However, if you are visiting during the summer months, it is an absolute must-do!  I attended a performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream there 10 years ago with my study-abroad program, and it was absolutely magical!  Be sure to check the website for the performance schedule and tickets.

Exit The Regent’s Park through Hanover Gate, and you will see a very unique building rising above the tree-line to your right.  As we stopped to marvel at what is the London Central Mosque, we were invited inside by a very kind gentleman.  The visit turned out to be one of the more enlightening cultural experiences I have had thus far.

Our guide led us (myself included) to the back of the main prayer hall where we could observe the worship services taking place.  He then took around thirty minutes or so to explain the basics of Islam and answer any questions that we might have.  During this time, another gentleman came and offered us snacks which apparently is a sign of appreciation.  The kind welcome we received and the beautiful architectural interior of the London Central Mosque make this a very worthwhile visit, and I would highly recommend it!

 

 

Now turn left and follow the Outer Circle until you have reached Baker Street which to most will need no introduction.  Wander to 221B, made famous as the home of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s legendary fictional detective Sherlock Holmes, to visit – you guessed it – the Sherlock Holmes Museum.  It costs 15£ to enter the museum, however, the adjoining gift shop is free to visit and has some very unique Sherlock souvenirs and memorabilia on display.  We unfortunately arrived too late in the evening to tour the museum, so I would recommend checking the hours online before arrival.

 

 

As you make your way toward Baker Street station, be sure to stop and snap a photo with the Sherlock Holmes Statue near the entrance.  And absolutely, you must experience The Wonderpass!  Words simply cannot describe!

 

 

 

Marble Arch to Knightsbridge via Kensington Palace

Green spaces in the heart of massive cities make me so very happy!  And this wander starts in one of the largest in central London – Hyde Park and adjacent Kensington Gardens.  Take the tube to Marble Arch and enter directly through the gates to your left (or right) depending on which exit you take from the station.  Be sure to snap a photo of the iconic arch before you do!  With so many memorials, monuments, galleries, and gardens, you could spend the entire day strolling the zig-zagging paths through this enormous park, and I would not fault you if you did.   It is a brilliant place to just take a moment and breathe!

 

 

Make your way towards Speaker’s Corner, and if you are lucky, you might bear witness to some entertaining debates.  Or head towards The Serpentine to take a dip in the lake or rent a paddle boat for a few hours.  The Italian Gardens are a nice place to people watch and be sure to check out the free art and cultural exhibits in the Serpentine Gallery.  Keep an eye out for London’s famous wild parakeets or take a moment to feed the gaggles of geese, ducks, and pigeons on the banks of the lake.  Like I said, you could easily spend an entire day here.

 

 

Adjacent to Hyde Park is Kensington Gardens, another massive green space which you probably have already unknowingly wandered into.  As you make your way towards Kensington Palace, home to the younger generation of the British Royal Family, be sure to snap a photo of the Peter Pan Statue and grab a bench on the edge of the Round Pound to watch the Queen’s swans.  If you are traveling with children or are just a kid at heart, head to the northwest corner of the park to enjoy the Diana Memorial Playground which features a giant wooden pirate ship.

 

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Just past the Round Pound, you will find handsome Kensington Palace and its Sunken Garden, a favorite of Diana, Princess of Wales.  Tickets to tour the palace are around £20 for adults, and as we were running low on time, we opted to just wander the surrounding area and tour on a later date.  The Sunken Garden, however, is free to visit, and is a must if you are in the area.  Beautiful throughout all seasons, it is a short peaceful walk through the arching canopy with views of the immaculate garden below.

 

 

Continue your stroll south through Kensington Gardens towards the ornate Albert Memorial, dedicated to the late Prince Albert, and be sure to snap a few photos before crossing the street to the Royal Albert Hall.  This gorgeous Victorian concert hall is the venue for a wide range of acts and performances varying from cirque de soleil to stand-up comedy.  Be sure to check the website for the schedule or pop in to the on-site ticket office and have a drink at one of the bars or restaurants gracing the ground floor.

 

 

Pro tip:  If you are traveling on a budget like we are and have a hankering to see a movie, check out the Imperial Cinema across the street from the Royal Albert Hall.  Imperial College’s student-run theater, it shows the same movie twice a week at severely discounted prices.  Plus the snacks are pretty cheap too!

Continue to wander past the Royal Albert Hall until you see Exhibition Road. Turn right and you have reached a museum-junkie’s dream.  Three of the best museums in London dominate a majority of the landscape, but several smaller museums can be found here as well.  Word to the wise, each one of these will need a half-day at least, so don’t expect to run the gauntlet all in the same day.

 

 

The first free to enter museum on your right is the Science Museum.  With dozens of galleries, interactive displays, and hands-on exhibits, both kids and adults could be occupied here for hours.  With halls covering information, research, and technology from the past, present, and future, this is truly a science nerd’s haven.  Here are a few of the highlights:

 

Making the Modern World – a gallery focused on scientific and technological objects from the past 250 years that have defined who we are and how we function as a society

 

Mathematics: The Winton Gallery – hmmmm…I wonder if this gallery is about how mathematics has shaped our world?  Spoiler alert: It is!

 

Exploring Space – a gallery focused on the history and future of space exploration with two real rockets on display as well as a re-creation of Neil Armstrong’s first steps on the moon

 

Information Age – six galleries showcasing interactive exhibits, digital experiences, and technological artifacts (they have six of my past cell phones on display….artifacts indeed) that hail the coming of the information age that we live in now

 

Flight – this gallery is a must-see for any airplane enthusiasts.  It covers the history of flight from hot-air balloons to our modern jets with up close views of engines, propellers, and cockpits

 

These few are just scratching the surface of the multitude of learning opportunities that the Science Museum has to offer.  With changing exhibitions and monthly events, check the website before you go for any special programming that may be happening, most of which are free.  I would have loved to attend the Science Museum Lates which occurs the last Wednesday of every month and is an adult-only after-hours theme night at the museum complete with a bar, snacks, and live music!

 

 

Across the street from the Science Museum is a visually impressive building which houses the Victoria and Albert Museum, commonly called the V&A.  We unfortunately did not get a chance to visit this massive museum during our most recent trip to London, however, I have been there before, and it is well worth a visit.  Also, free to enter (isn’t London GREAT?), it is the world’s leading museum of art and design with exhibits showcasing everything from fashion to furniture.

 

 

At the end of Exhibition Road, you will find what I consider one of the most beautifully striking buildings in London.  I must have taken hundreds of pictures of its exterior, and it is particularly stunning at night.  With a mixture of Gothic Revival and Romanesque-style architecture, the Natural History Museum has been called a ‘cathedral to nature,’ and it most certainly is.

 

 

Before entering this free museum, I thought that there was no way the interior architecture could match its dramatic façade, but how very wrong I was.  It truly was like walking into a cathedral, and it took my breath away. I could have gawked at its stunning main hall with the suspended whale skeleton for hours, but there was much MUCH more museum to see.

 

 

With rooms dedicated to dinosaurs, land mammals, sea creatures, reptiles, amphibians, and arthropods, take a walk through the evolution and extinction of the animals and insects that populate our earth.  Then check out the history of our own origins, including a 3.5 million-year-old tooth and the first adult Neanderthal skull ever found, at the Human Evolution exhibit.  Don’t forget to tour the galleries charting the rocks and minerals that make up our planet and be sure to visit The Vault for a look at some pretty spectacular gemstones.

 

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I would be remiss if I did not mention the visually brilliant Earth Hall and possibly one of the coolest escalators in existence.  Seriously, I road it four or five times during my visit.

 

 

With rotating special exhibits and monthly activities for children and adults, check the website for the program schedule and any event tickets that may need to be reserved or bought in advance.  From yoga in the main hall to sleepovers with dinosaurs, there is bound to be something for everyone.  If you are visiting during the winter months, stroll down to the east lawn for a whirl around a beautifully-located ice-skating rink or a ride on a classic merry-go-round.

 

 

After visiting the museums, head up Brompton Road to perhaps one of the most iconic department stores in the world – Harrods.  With eight floors selling everything from fine art to foie gras, it is more than just a department store, it is shopping experience.  Around every corner, the sights, sounds, and smells will overwhelm your senses as you wander through the maze of designer clothing and jewelry, gourmet spirits and sweets, and luxury toys and technology.  They even have their own gift shop to commemorate the hours you spent lost in Harrods Shoe Heaven.

When you start to feel a bit hungry, not to worry, the Food Hall on the ground floor and the spattering of restaurants, tea rooms, and cafés throughout the store will have something to tantalize even the most sophisticated taste buds.

Pro tip: Pick up a map at the entrance.  Seriously.  They have a map.  And you will need it.

 

 

If Harrods hasn’t gotten the best of your bank account, head further down the street for more upscale designer stores, including Rolex, TOM FORD, and Louis Vuitton.  Or pay a visit to Harvey Nichols, another world-famous department store and favorite of Princess Diana.  What a wander!

 

 

Hop on Hop off Tour

 

 

So, you don’t want to walk 5-10 miles a day you say, but you still want to see all the sites that London has to offer? And while the tube is excellent for transportation, you spend more time underground than above it.  Solution?  The world-famous Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour!

With their iconic open-top bright red double decker buses, it is the absolute best way to see all of London’s major sites and a must-do activity when visiting.  With multiple routes running through the different boroughs of London, you can pick your poison – do you want to see Westminster & Big Ben?  King’s Cross & the British Museum?  The Tower of London & St. Paul’s? The City of London?  Or a little bit of everything?

We opted for The Original London Sight-seeing Tour which was running a winter promotion that included a free additional 24 hours validity for our tickets, so basically 2 days for the price of 1.  Now that’s a deal!  Make sure to get on the T1: Yellow Original Route for some amazing live commentary (only available in English), although headsets and multi-lingual audio commentary are provided on all bus tours.

Also included are three FREE walking tours and a FREE Thames River cruise pass.  We unfortunately did not get to take advantage of the walking tours; however, I highly recommend the Thames River cruise!  After a full day of sight-seeing, we grabbed the last boat from the Tower Pier to Westminster Pier and were rewarded with some spectacular views of the city at night!

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Happy New Year from jolly old England!  We hope that your 2019 is full of BrAve adventures and Rhodes less traveled!  We know ours will be!