Newcastle Upon Tyne – Tunnels, Toons, & The Tyne River
“You know what’s a really great place to visit – Newcastle” ~ Clive, probably
As my month in London was drawing to a close, I knew it was time to move on, but where? I had only one criterion – it had to be outside the EU, or more specifically, the Schengen zone. After loads of research and several inquiries with various embassies, the slightly confusing Schengen agreement was becoming clear…kinda’ve.
Within 180 days, I could only spend 90 of those in countries who had signed the agreement – I won’t list them all here, but it is most of mainland Europe. And since David and I already had future plans for France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, and Greece, I knew I needed take a conservative route. Because honestly the thought of having ‘illegal immigrant’ stamped on my passport terrified me. (Apparently this is a possibility if you overstay your visa).
So where, oh where, should the Adventures of BrAve go?
North? South? East? West?
Throw a dart at a map?
And hope for the best?
I was open to any and all suggestions, and David had the perfect one. We had been joking for months about his British friend from Newcastle who simply could not stop talking about what an amazing place it was. So, I think it was just about time for me to check it out for myself. I already knew it had a great football culture, and would you look at that? There was a home match coming up!
So onwards and upwards to Newcastle for a short stay in Clive’s favorite city. A quirky college town known for its nightlife, here are my recommendations for a long weekend in Newcastle Upon Tyne:
Victoria Tunnel
Running from the Town Moor to the River Tyne, the Victoria Tunnel is a 3.9 km long subterranean wagon way that was constructed between 1839 and 1842. It was originally used to transport coal from the Leazes Main mines to boats on the River Tyne, however fell into disuse when the coal pits were closed. With a maximum depth of 26 meters, in 1939, it was converted into a communal bomb shelter that could protect up to 9,000 residents from German air raids during World War II.
When I asked what the best things to do in Newcastle were – besides attend a Newcastle United F.C. match, of course! – the tour of the Victoria Tunnel consistently came back as number one. And I could not agree more. Lasting 2 to 3 hours and only costing £8, this unique experience was worth every penny!
Outfitted with hardhats and ‘torches’, our guides led us into the depths of the brick-arched tunnel, giving us a close up look at its construction and original use, including a true ghost story about the death of a potential buyer when it was abandoned in 1860. The return journey from 26 meters below the surface focused on the tunnel’s conversion and use as an air raid shelter during World War II and its partial collapse and restoration some many years later.
Our guides were funny and informative and incredibly knowledgeable about not only the history of the Victoria Tunnel but also of Newcastle as well. Be sure to check the website for available dates and times as all tours must be booked in advance and tend to fill up fast. If you do one thing in Newcastle that is not football-related, make it this!
Discovery Museum
For a fun and fact-filled day that will entertain both adults and children alike, make sure to visit Newcastle’s Discovery Museum. Housed in a beautiful building, this free to enter museum provides hands-on science displays, galleries chronicling the history of Northeast England, and permanent exhibits covering everything from the Light Dragoons to light bulbs.
The museum’s main attraction is the Turbinia, a 32m long ship built by Charles Algernon Parsons that was designed to test the advantages of steam turbine propulsion in powering boats. The first of its kind, it was easily the fastest ship in the world at that time coming in at a blistering 34 knots!
Grey Street
No visit to Newcastle is complete without a stroll along the iconic Grey Street. Running from the impressive Grey’s Monument in the north down to the much older Dean Street in the south, it is the heart of Grainger town and a haven for discerning drinkers and diners alike. With fine neo-classical style buildings lining its curvature, it was once voted the ‘best street in the UK,’ and it is quite hard to disagree!
Home to the Theatre Royal and Central Arcade, Grey Street is worth a visit for the architecture alone; however, the buildings that once housed the finance and trading centers of Northeast England now host some of the best wine and tapas bars, cocktail lounges, and fine-dining establishments Newcastle has to offer. Pleased to Meet You, Barluga, Dabbawal, and Fat Hippo Underground were a few of my favorites. Come for the views, stay for the food!
Pro Tip: Just off Grey Street, you will find Tyneside Cinema and its adjacent Bar & Café. A super hip old-school movie theater, pop in for new releases and indie films alike. If you are traveling on a budget or just want to check out a favorite cult classic, every Monday night, they screen a different film in the bar for £4 with your choice of drink included. My recommendation – Go for the House Special!
Grainger Market
If wine and tapas aren’t really your thing or you would just prefer a chat with some friendly locals, head one street over to Grainger Market. A light and airy covered market designed by John Dobson, it is one of the few market halls that remains in use for its original purpose. In addition to fresh produce, high quality butchers, and artisan bakers, you can also find craft stalls, florists, street vendors, and cafés filled with Newcastle residents.
It becomes particularly busy on Saturdays when art and craft, or vintage and antique markets take over the event space. And on match days when football fans stop by to grab some cheap eats before heading over to St. James Park.
Pro tip: Be sure to check out the unique ‘Marks and Spencer Original Penny Bazaar’, the world’s smallest Marks and Spencer store!
River Tyne
Built along the Hadrian’s Wall Path, it would be almost impossible to visit Newcastle and not end up strolling along the Quayside of the River Tyne at least once. I ended up here almost every single evening as the views of the river and its iconic bridges are quite spectacular. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again, Life is better on the water.
Once the heart of the commercial district in Newcastle, your journey will lead you past centuries-old half-timbered buildings that once housed some of the city’s wealthiest merchants and traders. As you make your way towards the modern Millennium Bridge, however, these give way to a landscaped promenade dotted with parks and sculptures, luxury apartments and gastropubs.
Pro tip: On Sundays, an open-air market and food truck rodeo makes its home along the promenade. With everything from meat kebabs to macaroons – and all at reasonable prices – grab some street food and peruse the local arts and craft stalls for some unique finds.
Be sure to snap pictures of the Tyne Bridge, the symbol of the city, the hydraulic Swing Bridge, and the High Level Bridge, built by Robert Stephenson for modern rails and roads. One of the first passengers to cross was Queen Victoria herself!
Pop into Pitcher and Piano for jazz music and cocktails or keep walking to the Free Trade Inn for some classic pints and pub grub. Just off Quayside, end your evening at the Tyne Bar with live music almost every night of the week! From local indie bands to regional rock groups, they play host to any and all sounds, so check their website for the schedule.
For international and national musical and theatrical performances, cross over Millennium Bridge to the Sage Gateshead, the state-of-the-art culture centre with its curving steel roof. Or head to the BALTIC for some very modern art and eats. And speaking of the BALTIC….
BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art
Directly across the Millennium Bridge, it is hard to miss the Baltic Flour Mill which now houses the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art. A unique building in and of itself, this free to enter museum offers rotating exhibits of contemporary artists and large-scale modern art installations. Be sure to check their website for which artists or exhibits they are currently hosting and any special events or seminars taking place. They have activities for all ages and a free-to-use library for those of you searching for a quiet place to work or study.
I had the pleasure of seeing an extensive collection of works by Rasheed Araeen, a contemporary artist from Pakistan. The curated display incorporates more than 60 years of his ever-changing artistic style that has had a profound influence on multiple generations of artists, writers, and free-thinkers.
Also on display was an expansive large-scale art installation by Heather Phillipson titled The Age of Love. Immersive and thought-provoking, the sights, sounds, and smells almost overwhelmed the senses, as the smell of grass and manure mingled with the screeching of birds and crunching of gravel under your feet. Flashing lights, trippy cats (yes…cats) and thumping music evoked a late 90s rave, and it became hard to determine where the art ended and you began.
Be sure to make your way to the top floor observation deck for some spectacular skyline views of Newcastle and panoramas of the Tyne River. Snap a few photos before checking out the gift shop downstairs for some truly unique souvenirs or grabbing a cup of coffee or baguette at the café.
The Angel of the North
Although technically located in the neighboring town of Gateshead, you cannot visit Newcastle without venturing to the huge steel sculpture appropriately called The Angel of the North. Completed in 1998, it was designed by Anthony Gormley and stands 20 meters tall with a wingspan of 54 meters across. With the base weighing around 600 tons and the steel frame coming in at 200 tons, it can withstand winds up to 100mph!
Now considered a landmark for North East England, its significance was three-fold to Gormley: to honor the coal miners who worked for almost two centuries in the pits underneath the city, to signify the transition from the industrial age to the information age, and to serve as a focal point for our hopes and fears for the future.
Surrounded by a small park and some hiking trails, you could easily spend a few hours exploring the area before grabbing a pint at The Central Bar before making your way back across the Tyne Bridge to Newcastle.
St. James’ Park
You didn’t think I would visit Newcastle without ending up in one of the OG football cathedrals in the UK, did you? Fortunately for me, a home Premier League fixture versus Cardiff City was scheduled so you better believe that I got tickets in the supporters’ section! Home to Newcastle United F.C. since 1892, it has been expanded multiple times and now can seat 52,388 of the Black and Whites’ faithful – officially called the ‘Toon Army’ – making it the seventh largest football stadium in England.
They offer stadium tours – check the website for days and times – however it is truly something else to attend a Newcastle United match in person. Head to The Strawberry across from St. James’ Park before the match to enjoy a Newcastle Brown Ale (or many) in Newcastle. Then join the singing crowd of supporters as they make their way to Strawberry Corner and Gallowgate End. The atmosphere was truly electrifying!
Best of the Rest
Restaurants: Dabbawall (Indian), The Herb Garden (organic pizza), Blackfriars (fine-dining)
Cafes: The Cycle Hub (for the views), The Naked Deli (healthy), Kracklin (just go!), Tyneside Bar & Cafe
Cocktail Bars: Bealim House (gin distillery), Pleased to Meet You, Barluga, The Centurion
Pubs: The Strawberry (Newcastle FC), Free Trade Inn, The Bridge Tavern, Bacchus, Crown Posada
Live Music: The Tyne Bar, The Cluny
A huge shout out to Clive for all the recommendations! Newcastle is pretty awesome!
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