Weinachten in Deutschland
It’s the most wonderful time of the year!
I am THAT person when it comes to the Christmas holidays. More lights, more ornaments, more everything. The bigger the tree, the better. I start decorating BEFORE Thanksgiving and listen to Christmas music in August just because it makes me happy. Bring me all the mulled cider, Christmas cookies, and standing rib roasts. The longest our tree has ever stayed up is April…. yes, I kept a Christmas tree alive from November until April. That takes dedication folks. And heck, if it wasn’t taking up the entirety of our tiny living room in our one-bedroom apartment, I probably would’ve left it up for longer! So yeah, I fully admit and am proud to say, I am THAT person.
But to me, Christmas is more than just a day or even a season. It’s a frame of mind. A state of being. A red and green colored prism through which I view the world.
Well if I am THAT person, Germany is THAT country. Their dedication to Advent and Christmas rivals even mine – their Christkindlmarkts are legendary, their decorations extraordinary, and don’t even get me started on their glühwein and yuletide treats. But to me, what makes it all so magical is the traditions behind this love affair with the holiday season. It is ingrained in their culture, in their history. And they embrace it.
So, it was, of course, no surprise that we decided to spend our first BrAve Christmas in Germany. I was eager to experience the birthplace of the modern traditions and customs that have shaped how we in the US, and throughout the world for that matter, celebrate the season of Christmas. And Deutschland did not disappoint!
So, with so many Christkindlmarkts and so little time, here are the highlights from our first Weinachten in Deutschland:
Berliner Weihnachtszeit am Roten Rathaus – Alexanderplatz, Berlin
Alexanderplatz is often referred to as the central meeting point of Berlin with hundreds of thousands of people passing through the square every day. And during the weeks leading up until Christmas, it becomes even busier with three (or more) Christmas markets within a few minutes’ walk of each other, including the Berliner Weihnachtszeit am Roten Rathaus, one of the oldest and most famous Christkindlmarkts in Berlin.
Located in the shadow of the Fernsehturm, Berliner Weihnachtszeit is easily recognizable by its gigantic ferris wheel and large ice-skating rink surrounding the statue of Neptune in the square. With traditionally decorated stalls selling German handicrafts, bratwursts, candied nuts, and of course glühwein, it was like walking into a Christmas dream!
And speaking of glühwein…I have never been a fan of red wine, but I could not get enough of this delicious mulled beverage! Served in a collectible mug that you can either keep or return for a deposit, it is the perfect cold weather treat!
With its ideal location and all the Christmas tradition you could want, Berliner Weihnachtszeit am Roten Rathaus was by far our favorite Christkindlmarkt in Berlin. We even got to see Santa Claus! (He visits this market three times a day!)
http://www.berlinerweihnachtszeit.de/
Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz – Berlin
Between the large buildings in one of the busier shopping districts of Berlin, you will find Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz. In contrast to Berliner Weihnachtszeit, this market is spread out over several blocks and is a healthy blend of modern and traditional. Providing activities for the whole family, including a giant luge (Rodelbahn), ice skating, and games of Eisstockschießen (similar to curling), it is easily accessible and close to many of the major historical sites in Berlin.
Be sure to keep an eye out for the Weihnachtspyramide (Christmas pyramid) at each of the Christkindlmarkts. Dating back to the 16th century, these traditional wooden decorations can range from a few inches to many meters tall and are said to be the predecessor to the modern-day Christmas tree.
Whether you want to peruse the stalls selling food and gifts, take a ride down the Rodelbahn, or enjoy some live music on the weekends, Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz has a little something for everyone. And because it opens at the beginning of November, you can start getting into the Christmas spirit a little bit early! (And let’s face it, that’s definitely not a bad thing!)
https://potsdamerplatz.de/properties/winterwelt/
Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt – Berlin
Location, location, location! If there is one thing that Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt has going for it, it is location! Situated between three impressive buildings in Berliner-Mitte – the Deutsche Dom, the Konzerthaus, and the Franzozische Friedrichstadtkirche – it is easy to see why it is often considered the best Christkindlmarkt in Berlin.
Although there is a small entrance fee (€1), Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt is well worth the price of admission. Vendors from around the world come here to hawk their unique hand-made products and food stalls offer regional and international delicacies. A massive Christmas tree towers over the cozy market as live music and theatrical performances keep everyone in the Christmas spirit.
We found Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt to be much MUCH busier than the other two we visited, making it difficult to maneuver through the crowds at times and creating long lines at many of the food and beverage stands. Thus, I would recommend visiting earlier in the season or on a weekday. The prices here were also slightly more expensive than those at Alexanderplatz and Potsdamer Platz. However, do not let this deter you from visiting this iconic market. You will not regret it!
Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt Website
Frankfurt Christmas Market – Frankfurt am Main
“It’s the never-ending Christmas market!” This was said more than once as we made our way through (and got lost in) Frankfurt’s massive Christkindlmarkt that sprawls throughout the city center. In contrast to Berlin and Köln which feature a number of Christmas markets in different areas of the city, the Frankfurt Christmas Market is one huge market encompassing Römerberg, St Paul’s Square, Mainkai, Hauptwache and Friedrich-Stoltze-Square.
The heart of the oldest and largest Christmas market in Germany, however, can be found In Römerberg with its iconic timber and gabled houses framing a gigantic Christmas tree and charming market in the center of the square.
Like those Christkindlmarkts in Berlin, you can find stalls selling hand-made German crafts, regional yuletide treats, bratwursts, cheeses, and of course glühwein. However, Frankfurt offers another mulled beverage of choice that can only be found in the city that made it famous – hot apfelwein. With a decidedly more tart taste than cider or mulled wine, pair it with the traditional Frankfurt sweet Bethmännchen, a small biscuit-like treat made of marzipan rolled into a ball and decorated with almonds.
Some helpful hints for when you visit the Frankfurt Christmas Market:
- It is easy to get lost. Really really easy to get lost (we did several times.) Amongst the multitude of traditional stalls and stands that stretch endlessly down main streets and side streets, one wrong turn and not even Google Maps can save you. You have been warned!
- When purchasing a mulled wine or beer, you will be handed a colored token. Do NOT lose that token and make note of which stand you purchased your beverage from. The mug or glass can only be returned for your deposit to that stand or a stand that accepts the same color token. We did not know this, and after purchasing a glühwein at one end of the Frankfurt Christmas Market were forced to walk almost an hour back to return the mug when another stand further down would not accept it.
- The more elderly German women in line at a stall that specializes in Bethmännchen, the better the Bethmännchen will be. Just saying.
Frankfurt Christmas Market Website
Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom – Cologne Cathedral, Köln
Köln is famous for its Christkindlmarkts, and the Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom is the most iconic of them all. Situated at the base of the Kölner Dom in the square between the cathedral and the Roman-Germanic Museum, this quintessential Christkindlmarkt is everything I always imagined a Christkindlmarkt to be. With the largest Christmas tree in the Rhineland towering over hundreds of traditional stalls selling all the best in German yuletide gifts and treats, not even the rain could damper our Christmas spirit. (Several mugs of glühwein also helped!)
With a range of acts performing on a brightly lit stage at the base of the massive 25m high Nordmann fir, grab a bratwurst from a traditional Schwenker (swinging) grill or some delectable strudel and settle in for hours of Christmas entertainment. From sing-a-longs to acrobats and rock bands to comedians, check the website ahead of time for the full line-up.
Although the elements were not in our favor (it rained the entire time), Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom was by far our favorite of all the Christkindlmarkts we visited in Germany! With its picturesque location, exceptional food and beverage selection, and varied stage program, it exuded Christmas charm and was everything I had hoped it would be and more! Be aware though, it is only open until December 23!
http://www.koelnerweihnachtsmarkt.com/en/
Heinzels Wintermärchen – Altstadt (Old Town), Köln
A short walk from Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom and into the heart of Altstadt, and you will find that the Heinzelmännchen (house gnomes) have been busy setting up a Christkindlmarkt of their own. Legend has it that the house gnomes have been performing jobs and tasks for Cologne merchants for hundreds of years and have organized the Heinzels Wintermärchen like the guilds of old. Each winding alley throughout the Christmas market is themed accordingly from sweets and treats to toys and handicrafts.
With a healthy heap of Christmas cheer, you can’t help but smile as you wander through this quaint Christkindlmarkt. Dressed in traditional garb, vendors sing from their stalls or offer free craft demonstrations while a brass band plays Christmas carols and encourages sing-a-longs. (We tried. David was far more successful than I was!) With an ice-skating rink and children’s roundabout, a puppet theatre and Santa’s village, Heinzels Wintermärchen definitely awakens the child inside.
Be sure to keep an eye out for the holiday Heinzelmännchen throughout the market perched atop the many stalls or gliding along on swings above. (They can even be found on the collectible glühwein mugs!)
https://www.heinzels-wintermaerchen.de/
Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to visit the rest of Köln’s enchanting Christkindlmarkts, including the Angel’s Market held on the Neumarkt in the city center and the Harbour Market held at the gateway to Rheinauhafen on River Rhine. (Next time for sure!) If you are visiting during the Christmas season, be sure to hop on the Christmas-Market-Express which runs between these four Christkindlmarkts and enjoy a leisurely ‘train’ ride through the heart of Köln.
Frohe Weinachten!
